Flavour Report with Derek Goforth: The verdict on some new menu items at Geraldton’s Laian Restaurant

I have reviewed and loved Laian Restaurant before. But when given the opportunity for a sneak peek at some of the new menu items chef Nadeem Turkia had cooked up for his summer offerings, I jumped at the chance. First and foremost, Laian is not just about great food. Don’t get me wrong; the food is excellent, the coffee is great and the atmosphere is wonderful. But Laian is more than that,t’s about Nadeem and his story, Nadeem and his culinary vision. You just have to take a quick wander around the restaurant floor to get a good idea of Nadeem’s dream for his restaurant and for the culinary future of Geraldton. Proudly adorning the back wall is a stunning mural that explains his journey, influences and dreams. “For me, eating good food means being in heaven,” the mural reads. “To me, being in heaven means being in Geraldton. “My heart is Arabic, but the beats are Australian. If we serve people with a smile it doesn’t matter what language we speak. “My culture has the oldest recipes in the world; now I have a chance to make them different, with an Australian twist.” During this visit, we could have reviewed a dozen dishes, but we focused on our three favourites and new additions to the menu. First off was the fava beans, which were roasted and mixed with a delightful blend of oils and spices. I never thought I could survive as a vegan, but I could literally eat nothing but this dish for the rest of my life. It’s the perfect beans on toast ingredient. Then there was the salt and pepper squid, which Nadeem tells me is sourced locally and was wriggling just a couple of hours before. The spices were spot on, and the squid was tender and moist. We could have done with a bit more of a pepper hit, but the dish was really well-balanced with the sharp side salad. Then on to our favourite and the star of the evening, the snapper with coleslaw and sauce. The fish was so fresh I am surprised it didn’t jump off the plate and make a break for the sea, and the coleslaw had the perfect balance of sweet and sharp to complement the delicate texture and flavour of the snapper. While prices have not been set for the new items, I have found Laian to be reasonable and fair when considering the portion sizes and quality of ingredients. Service and seating are excellent, and sitting outside watching the sun go down while eating quality local food is a must for any local. It might seem obvious to say, but I will say it anyway: I thoroughly recommend not only visiting Laian but also taking the time to chat with the staff and look around the place. Geraldton has such an awesome selection of eateries and I am so glad Laian is establishing itself right at the top.